‘Teppan’ means a metal hotplate and ‘yaki’ means to cook or grill. Using olive oil and butter, the chef barbecues wagyu beef, tenderloin steak or seafood, and vegetables on a hotplate at customers’ tables.
In 1976, Paul Kounnas dined at the Inn with workmates when visiting from Adelaide and liked the Japanese garden, and the fresh food being cooked in front of him.
Christine Kounnas, a customer for 30 years, was happy to have Chiba-san cook for her group on a recent Friday.Credit: Joe Armao
After Kounnas moved to Melbourne in 1978 he visited weekly. Later he came with his wife Sophie, their three children and now their grandchildren.
“The carving and cooking of the food and the way they handle the knives – that’s showmanship enough without having to throw food around,” said Kounnas, now 72.
Kounnas’ daughter, Christine Kounnas, thought Chiba-san had retired, but was excited last month when he cooked for her and her husband, and two friends.
“The food would taste different with another chef, even if I was ordering the same food,” she said.
Chiba, whom Bob Hayes recruited from Tokyo, did retire, unsuccessfully.
Chiba said: “I had a big operation and couldn’t do anything for a few years but when I felt better, I was so bored. I missed Teppanyaki Inn so much.”
He now works on Fridays when current owners Michael Lee and Albert Looi need him.
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Chef Philippe Mouchel, whose French bistro, Philippe, is also on Collins Street, said: “Well done, Chiba-san.”
“One of the greatest gifts” of a long-standing chef, Mouchel said, was their ability to share their experience with others. They could inspire generations of industry professionals “and continue to bring joy to our customers”.
Food writer Rita Erlich, a former Good Food Guide co-editor, said it was fantastic and rare for a CBD restaurant to survive for 50 years, and unusual to be a chef for that long.
“I think you need a long life, good food and a lot of commitment,” Erlich said.
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