The town of Castel Gandolfo sits high on the edge of a volcanic crater lake just 25 kilometres from Rome.
Its villas, palaces and grand churches are a testament to its long-standing use as a summer retreat for the popes of the Catholic Church.
While Pope Francis stayed away during his 12-year pontificate, the newly elected Pope Leo XIV has revived the tradition, arriving in the town this week to start a six-week holiday.
Visitors to Rome can follow in his footsteps to find cooler climes, monumental architecture and stunning lake scenery.
See inside the popes’ summer residence
The area around Lake Albano has been a favourite getaway for Roman rulers since the time of the Emperor Domitian in the first century.
In the 17th century, it became the favoured summer retreat of the Vatican leaders.
Pope Urban VIII built the papal palace in Castel Gandolfo in 1624, and it was enlarged over succeeding pontificates to its present size of 55 hectares – bigger than Vatican City itself.
Past popes used it regularly in summer, drawing huge crowds of pilgrims who would come on Sundays to hear his noon blessing delivered in the inner courtyard of the palace.
When Pope Francis decided to remain in Rome in the summer, the town suffered an initial economic hit from the decision.
But then the pontiff turned the papal palace and gardens into a year-round museum, open to the public, which now brings a steady flow of tourists to Castel Gandolfo.
Inside, visitors can walk through various chambers, including a courtroom, a room for the Swiss Guard and the throne room, all housing artworks and ornate furniture.
On the grounds are a working farm, manicured gardens, an observatory run by Jesuit astronomers and, more recently, an environmental educational centre inspired by Francis’ 2015 encyclical, Laudato Si (Praised Be).
Churches, coffee stops and lake views: What to do in Castel Gandolfo
There is plenty to do in Castel Gandolfo beyond visiting the papal residence. It has been voted one of Italy’s ‘most beautiful villages’, so even just strolling through the steep streets is a pleasure.
With its lofty hillside position, the town also affords splendid views over the cobalt waters of Lake Albano.
The papal palace is located on Piazza della Libertà, Castel Gandolfo’s main square.
Here, you can visit the Church of San Tommaso da Villanova, designed by the great Roman baroque architect Gian Lorenzo Bernini.
Stop for coffee in the bars around the square and take a moment to write a postcard so that you can send it from what is thought to be the world’s first postbox, a brass slot on the wall of the town hall.
To cool off, head down to the road that runs along the lake. You’ll find restaurants and bars on one side and beach clubs on the other.
You can also rent a bike to explore more of the surrounding area or rent a boat or a kayak on the lake.
Trains to Castel Gandolfo run almost every hour from Roma Termini station on the Castelli Romani line and take around 45 minutes.
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